Bahia Asuncion

The pacific high pressure broke down and opened up a slot for a decent low pressure system to move on over into Southern California and Northern Baja bringing South winds and rain. We are so glad we are in the calm, sunny weather of Baja Sur! We’re not counting any chickens though and are headed off to Bahia Santa Maria/ Mag Bay (another naturally enclosed and protected harbor) in case this lowly pressure situation gets it’s toes in any further south.

We didn’t stay in Turtle Bay long before heading approx 50nm south to the quaint village and beautiful bay of Asuncion. On the way we saw several whales and I snapped a few shots. They mostly just spout and every now and then you see a tail when they dive deep… I tried for a tail – but only got spouts.

Grey whale en route to Bahia Asuncion

The small town of Asuncion looks over a beautiful point with a small island directly to the south. A fishing co-op supports the village’s livelihood that includes a substantial cannery and a fleet of pangas. The first fisherman we met who was turning in from his morning at sea was very pleased to meet us and offered to drive us several miles down the beach to the surf spot. We felt bad to use his gas so declined the offer, but he said anytime we want we can find him for a ride – no problemmo! This was just the beginning of having wonderful conversations with each person we met in this town who all were not only generous with offering help (one guy wanted to drive us to the pharmacia for dramamina), but also warm and laid-back and assuring us that this place is very safe, chill, and the best in Baja.

A fishermen’s house in town (my favorite pic)

Fishermen preparing to haul out the boat

The anchorage lies off a small coastal bluff where landing can be made in a nice sandy cove close to a well stocked grocery store, places to discard trash, water purification plant, and semi-good sea glass hunting!

Me on the beach with the dinghy and Arcturus anchored out in the bay

We walked around the bright, dusty, quiet town and out to the rocky point to a look out tower past a blowhole with several dogs threatening to chomp our calves off.

On the steps to the point lookout tower with the town and both sides of the point in the background

We ended up back at the beach with some cold beers fresh from the mercado fridge when a dusty forunner slammed on the breaks and asked if we spoke english. This crazy San Fran/Floridian 20-something couple were driving down Baja! We became quick friends and in no time were rowing out to the boat amid a choppy sea three sheets to wind the lot of us! We had a great party aboard and they stayed the night with us (our second guests aboard after the Nitopi’s last June at the Channel Islands). They, much like us, had their parents worried sick, had had it with their jobs, were anxious for adventure and were soaking up the desert of baja and all the wonders it has to offer. The boys managed to get the engine on the dinghy and took a tequila run into shore while the ladies made jewelry on board. It was an awesome night and we were stoked to meet them. Traveler, a sailboat we had seen in San Quintin and Turtle Bay arrived that evening in the anchorage with us and other than that we have not seen another cruising yacht.

Back on the beach the next morning were piles of broken bits from large clam shells that have been tumbled in the surf and smoothed down into the most beautiful pieces! Maybe these will make it on a necklace someday…

A collage of the cool smoothed shells that were once large clams washed in the surf

On the hunt for waves we took the dinghy down the bay about 10 miles. James and Lauren, our new friends, had driven their truck down that way and Andrew had a-go at the pretty much closing out reefy and I swam to shore for the best shell hunting I’de seen yet. Lauren and I dug through the shells and explored the dunes…

The dunes South of the anchorage looking back at the bay and our new mates Lauren and James

We headed back to the boat when the winds really started to pipe and were glad to be back for a pretty good blow that night, a night we were thankful to not be at sea. It was white-capping here in the anchorage pretty good. We reckon it could have been gusting up to 30 knots (NNW), as the weather reports suggested. The anchorage is not rolly at all and we have slept well every night. This morning is another calm and beautiful day and when the winds pick-up we’re looking to raise the sails and continue South.

A shot of the boat from the towns coastal road

We love our Telcel internet stick that we’re getting 5 bars of service from out here at anchor. Checking the weather is so EASY! We have an SSB (Single Side Band Radio) receiver and are hoping to get weather through that stupid thing but have yet to get the it down. Apparently it’s hard to do and others say that our techny generation doesn’t have the patience for the WW2 era radio but it would be great to get it going. We have received news from Florida, Cuba and Hawaii – but can’t get the good nets where the mariners are talking about the weather. Rats! We just returned back from shore after stocking up on avocados, limes, chiles, cilantro, eggs, cheese, bananas, tortillas, home-made salsas, beer and more for about $25. This is a baja gem… at least from what little we’ve seen. Adios!

Desert floor, desert allure…

7 Responses to “Bahia Asuncion”
  1. James says:

    Whats up! We are over in La Paz now staying with some friends at a fancy gringo resort. We spent a night down in Puerto San Carlos right by Mag Bay, nice town if you end up mooring nearby.

    Great to meet you guys! your pictures are epic!

    until we meet again,

    • followthearc says:

      Hi guys! We have only made it Bahia Santa Maria and can barely see the lights over the dunes of San Carlos lit up at night. Turns out going into that port guarantees Mexican Navy boarding. eaahh! Did you guys make it to Cabo? Have a shrimp cocktail for us on that cruise. So great to run into you guys, Julie and Andrew

  2. Allison Shephard says:

    I’m green with envy of your beachcombing opportunities! Those smoothed clam shells look awesome. Miss you my friend! Be on the lookout for a massive email from me in the next day or two…hopefully your bandwidth can handle it 🙂

    Peace and XOXO, Allison

    • followthearc says:

      Allie-Bean! You will really enjoy these specimens, I’m certain there is a small pile for you! I found a sweet shell the other day, I’ll have to post it up. Thinking of you and looking forward to massive attack. Hugs – Jules

  3. Fabienne Nitopi says:

    Those shells are gorgeous! So fun you met another travelling duo. That sunset is unreal! Love you guys.

  4. Joaquin says:

    Buenazas las fotos!!! épico all around!

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